Chicken and Barley Ankake Soba
Those of you who have eaten at Raku in NYC might be familiar with ankake udon. Ankake refers to a broth thickened with some type of starch, typically arrowroot or cornstarch. This is our version with a twist where I steep barley with the base dashi to pair with the nutty savoriness of buckwheat soba noodles. The chicken and egg round the dish out with lots of protein for a hearty dish fit for the coldest winter.
Ingredients
2 chicken thighs, lightly salted for 24hrs (preferred)
1 quart dashi
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin
1 pinch salt (more to taste)
1/4 cup toasted barley
200 g dried soba noodles
2 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons kudzu (arrowroot starch)
2 tablespoons water
1 scallion, thinly sliced
(Preferably) Lightly salt the chicken thighs with salt a day before (it doesn’t need to be exactly 24 hrs.) If you’re pressed for time, salt them for 1 hour and leave at room temperature before cooking.
Combine the dashi, light soy sauce, sake, mirin, and salt in a medium pot and bring to a boil. Adjust the seasoning with more salt, sake and mirin to taste. It shouldn’t be salty but quite rich in umami.
Turn off the heat, add the barley and steep for 3-5 minutes, covered, tasting frequently until the barley flavor is pronounced.
Strain the barley and bring the liquid up to a simmer over high heat in the same pot. Turn off the heat and add the chicken thighs. Poach the chicken for 4-6 minutes depending on the thickness. I check the doneness by feel: squeeze the chicken and if it’s firm with a very slight bounce, it should be ready. Double check the doneness with a thermometer or slice into the thickest part. Set aside.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the soba to package instructions.
Combine the kudzu and water in a small bowl with a whisk. Bring the poaching liquid to a boil and slowly drizzle the kudzu slurry until thickened. Turn off the heat and add the eggs. Check the seasoning one last time.
Portion the soba into two bowls with the chicken. Drizzle the barley ankake broth to cover and garnish with scallions.